Posting, part deux...
Due to a techincal problem, my posting yesterday is now resting six feet under. I had a nice typed out posting when I got a non responsive server so from here on out, will copy the post before I actually post. Safety lesson for all you boys and girls...
Anyway, it is time to revisit the clock. Last week and I was in San Angelo Texas. Nice little city(or big town...). While I was there, one of my students hooked me up with an older gentleman who does armor. Although the armor wasn't all that impressive, it was impressive in the sense that the guy was pretty much self taught. Also, he has no affiliation with the SCA or any other medieval organization. He just does it for the fun of it. I was also impressed with how much he was able to do in a small space. The final bit, which made it all worth it, was he showed me somes book that I do not own. The first is http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1581600984/qid=1087392524/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/002-6918663-5595210?v=glance&s=books This book is by a guy that I've chatted with a few times a few years back. He runs the www.chronique.com website. I have to say the illustrations in the book make it worth the purchase. I've read some reviews that maybe he takes some shortcuts that he shouldn't but he definitely has some very good tips and ideas in the book. I'm not looking to make armor(yet) but a lot of his information is good general metal working info. The other books that he showed I had seen years ago but had completely forgotten about. The first is a book on western crusader era armor. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1853673471/ref=pd_bxgy_text_1/002-6918663-5595210?v=glance&s=books&st=* The second book in the series is on eastern and Islamic armor. Now, these are definitely acadamia books but the line drawings in it are invaluable. It was funny because I actually found several line drawings of the axe that I made a few weeks earlier. So, time to spend some money on some books.
Back to the clock, and this time I mean it. When I learn something new I like to have a major project in mind as my ultimate goal. To me, it is easier to learn something if I am working towards a very complex project. The main reason is that while I'm doing very repetitive simple stuff(like making tent stakes) is that I can think about how this simple method can be used on the big project. It is a way that I keep myself from getting bored to tears... My first wooden clock was actually one of my first woodworking projects.
As a result of this mindset, I have many times that I have to step back and look at a problem again. For example, when I first was looking into doing the clock I was CONVINCED (note huge letters to emphasis my arrogance when I think I know something) that the gears for the clock were made from cast metal (pouring liquid iron into molds). After I started actually researching (reading makes Mongo's brain hurt...) the clocks of the middle ages, I found a few references that all pointed to the fact that the gears are forged (heated and hammered into shape.) The final straw was the information I received from the British Musuem that send all evidence indicates that clock gears were always forged. So, after sitting on my self made altar for a few years I had to humbly climb down and starting building a new one...
Will you just shut and make your point? Allright, so that brings us to the present day. Between my trip to San Angelo and the sucky weather recently, I have had a chance to rethink the first parts I am making for the clock. Specifically, the clock's corner posts on the frame. For those joining this program already in progress, here is a photo of one of the clocks that I am using as inspiration for mine. It should be noted that I am not making and exact replica of any particular clock. But I like the corner posts on this one. This is the Cassiobury Park Clock located in the British Museum and its the clock that got me started.
Now, the corner posts are not easily seen in this photo but you might be able to make out that on the ends it is wider than in the middle. In the past I have tried two techniques to achieve this. The first was to use lots of hammer work to thin out the middle part. Since I work alone that is a lot of hammering... The second method was to fold the steel back on itself on the ends, weld it together then use that extra thickness to spread out the width. This also involved a lot of hammering.
I think I have decided to try a third method. Simply to use a chisel to cut away the material in the middle part of the stock. Rather than hammer for hours, I'm thinking that I can just chisel the middle part away. For those who don't do blacksmithing, it is very common to chisel hot metal. As a matter of fact, one of the most common motifs the Fleur, is created partly by using a chisel. I will essentially heat up a portion of the bar, use the chisel and cut down the length. After I have cut away the excess, what little is left should be easy to finish up with the hammer.
Finally, I am going to take a tip from one of the guys on www.anvilfire.com. I have been having some problems with my made tools in that I was getting inconsistant results. Not surprising since I've been using scrap metal. He recommded picking up some S7 stock(a grade of tool steel) This steel has several important qualities to the smith. The first and biggest is that it remains hard until it gets very hot. Most steels will begin to soften significantly at around 550 degrees. S7 remains hard at a much higher temp. Since I don't have a helper, it is more difficult for me to insure that I don't heat up the tools too much while I'm working. Also, S7 is air hardened which means if I do let it get to hot I simply set it aside and it will reharden. Most metals you have to go through a process to reharden them. Its not a medieval grade steel but its my concession because I don't have a helper in the shop. I don't have someone I can turn to to hold the metal while I cool the tool or juggle with the hammer. So I hope to hit the metal store either this week or next.
Wednesday, June 16, 2004
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