Started cleanup...

Did a little bit of work on the clock today.  I started by correcting a minor problem with one of the end tabs.  That involved just a few hammer swings.  Next, I started to work on the cleanup of the clock.  At this stage, it mainly involves removing any left over scale.  This is more difficult then I expected. 

I had to use one of the more aggressive wire wheels to get the scale to even budge.  It is making a big difference but it is taking time.  I got about 25% of the frame cleaned up before I came in.  I did coat the newly cleaned up metal with some oil to prevent rusting until I'm ready to apply the finish.

Now, an important safety tip.  I am doing something which I really don't want to do.  That is, I am using wire wheels with an angle grinder.  The wire wheels, no matter their quality, will shoot off bits of metal from the piece and occasionally they also throw a wire.  When using these, proper protection is a must.  Full face shield, gloves, leather apron, heavy clothing, etc...  Let me tell you why.

While cleaning up part of the clock, I temporarily lost control of the grinder.  It jerked out of my hands and the wire wheel hit my apron.  It tore up the surface of the apron pretty good.  I couldn't help but think of what things would have been if I had just been wearing a T-shirt.

So, if you do ever use a wire wheel at high speed, protect yourself.

Neat article...

I'm going to have to pick up the current issue of Nature magazine.  They have an article on the Antikythera Mechanism.  This mechanism which is over 2000 years old was capable of predicting position of the sun, moon and probably the planets as well.  It is believed to be the first example of a computer(analog).  It is one of my dream projects for somewhere down the road.  I have a big list of dream projects once I get this clock done...  :)

Anyway, here is CNN's article  http://www.cnn.com/2006/TECH/space/11/30/astronomy.calculator.reut/index.html

And here is the wiki entry on it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antikythera_mechanism

New clock resource

I was digging around on the internet and found a church in West Sussex that has a clock that is probably from the same maker as mine.  It can be seen at

http://www.roughwood.net/ChurchAlbum/WestSussex/WestHoathly/WestHoathlyStMargaret2004.htm

On the web page, it states that the clock is from about 1660 because of the presence of a pendulum.  However, the clock was almost certainly from the same maker as the clock that I am using as a model.  Chances are the pendulum was a modification to the original clock.  It was very common that medieval clocks with a verge and foliot escapement (the actual time keeping part of the clock) were later modified to have a pendulum.  The clock in the church probably dates from about 1600.

Anyway, I sent a note to the church to see if I can get any more photos from them.

Some basic supplies.

 Today, I picked up some new wire wheels to help on the polishing on the clock.  The bigger score today was the 50# of S7 alloy steel.  The stock is perfectly sized for making hammers and other tools.  Specifically, the S7 is for top swages that I will use to create the clocks arbors (axles).

I should read more often...

After my last post I started thinking a bit, which can be dangerous.  I went through all my blacksmithing books and I am going to try another finish.  I am doing this from memory so I think it goes something like this...

1)  Wire brush frame
2)  Follow with rub down with scotch-brite pads
3)  Next, a mixture of Linseed oil and thinner with a small amount of beeswax melted in.
4)  Wipe on metal while metal is warm (not hot)
5)  Repeat one or two times to ensure complete coverage.
6)  Follow up with a polishing wax.

Like I've said before, this would not be as big of an issue if I was using wrought iron.  However, I do want the clock to last for some time so I want to make sure I have a nice protective layer.  I may also pick up some heavy plastic that I can wrap the clock with.  This is because I frequently work on the clock at demos so I want someway to transport it in the back of my truck without it getting wet.

Frame closer to being done.

Spent some more time on the forge.  I started by finishing up the peen work.  I also went back and did cleanup on all of the peens from the other day.  I needed to do the cleanup because I had left a little "wiggle room" in case I needed to adjust the frame.  The frame is very securely together now.  I cannot get it to shift at all.

Next, I straightened out one of the end pins that had gotten a little bent during the closing up of the frame.  That looks pretty good now.

Finally, I did a test cleaning and finishing of one post.  I simply wire brushed it then treated it with beeswax.  I want to see how it comes out before I continue.  I might go for a mix of linseed and beeswax to ensure a more thorough protection coat.

Then, when I got inside, I had a surprise waiting for me.  The author of the articles that I have been using as my primary source of information had sent me an email.  I've mentioned him before but this email was very encouraging.  To his knowledge, no one has ever tried to reproduce this style of clock using period techniques.  He gave me some strong words of encouragement and offered to answer any technical questions that I might have.  :) 

It pays to send emails...

In my effort to make the clock as period as possible, I have been in contact with various museums in England.  Perhaps the best move I made was to contact the British Museum several years ago.  As a result of that contact, I received a photo copy of articles by Jeremy Evans of the British Museum.  These articles have been one of my primary sources of information.

I started emailing Mr. Evans about 2 years ago.  During conversations with him, I came to the realization that I needed to learn more smithing.  I fell out of contact with Mr. Evans and when I attempted to contact him earlier this year, I found out that he had retired.

Well, I decided to try and track Mr. Evans down as I thought he might be interested.  Once again I sent a note to the British Museum and I just got a reply back.  Mr. Evans is interested in conversing more with me.  He is probably the number one person to ask questions about this clock.  This comes at an opportune moment as I am kind of stuck in understanding a few small issues with the clock.  They include:

*  The arbor of the going train (timekeeping side of the clock).  It has several parts that slide on (main gear, a few washers and the winding drum) and I cannot figure out how all of these are properly fitted.

*  There is a tension spring on the count wheel (used to control striking of the bells) and I'm not sure I understand the purpose.  Could just be to make sure the wheel stays vertical.

*  There is a spring on the main arbor of the striking train (bell ringing side of the clock) that acts as a clutch during the winding process and I'm not quite sure of its construction.

Frame nearly complete

  Today, I was able to finish forming the bottom cross bar.  I also punched the holes in the bottom part of the frame to allow the cross bar to be placed.  Once I complete the cross bar, it was time to seal the frame up.  To do this, the end of long bars in the frame are heated then peened to form a head.  This is the same as hammering over a rivet to have it grip.  This picture shows the frame in the fire to heat up a corner to close it up.



Notice the at the top of the photo, the corners furthest from the camera have already been peened over while the closer ones are still untouched.  Also notice that the part of the frame closest to the camera is held to together by twisted rope.

This picture shows all but two corners peened over.  Unfortunately, I was getting tired and my blows were getting sloppy so I decided to stop rather than mess up the frame.  This is what the frame looks like at the moment.

 

So what's left for the frame?  I just need to peen over two more corners.  After that, its cleanup time.  I will wire brush the entire frame.  I will do this using a angle grinder with a wire wheel.  This is one of the few times I let myself use power tools.  Since I have to use mild steel instead of wrought iron, I have to worry a lot more about rusting.  I will clean the frame up then heat parts of the frame and treat it with beeswax to finish it.  Oh, by the way, the frame is almost perfectly square.  There is only one spot that it is out by the smallest amount.  It won't cause me a problem which is good because I can't figure out an easy way to fix it.

Maybe this weekend I can start making gears...

A good mistake...

  I demoed at an SCA event this weekend.  Because of meetings and other activities, I did not get as much forge time as I wanted but still managed to get a lot done.

  I worked on the crossbars on the frame.  I made a mistake in my math when deciding where to place the tenons.  When I first made the tenons, they didn't have that much of a shoulder.  I was a bit disappointed with the shoulders but when I compared them to the frame I realized that both tenons needed to be moved back half an inch.  Because of this, I was able to form a much better shoulder on the tenons.

  Once I was done with the top cross bar, I punched holes in the existing frame for the crossbar.  This picture shows the top cross bar in place.  The bottom cross bar is also in the picture but I ran out time when I was working on it.  I only need another few hours to finish it.  Within the next few days, I will be permanently attaching the frame together.



This picture is a close up of the cross bar tenon.  It shows a slot that will allow another piece to be wedge into position.  Also, notice the rust on the lower cross bar.  I left it in the slack tub overnight and you can tell what was under water and what wasn't.

Two good investments

Florida presents different problems for the different seasons.  I am working out of my garage.  More specifically, when I forge, I pull the forge out into the driveway.  I work by daylight.  During the summer, I have plenty of light but also plenty of heat.  It is usually so hot that I can only work for a few hours.  Bummer...  Anytime other than summer, its cool enough but the sun sets very early.  So I end up not having a lot of time to forge after I get home from work.

Two weeks ago I purchased a large set of halogen lights on a tripod.  These things pump out quite a bit of light.  I am now able to work up until 8:30.  I never work past 8:30 to avoid problems with the neighbors.  It has really set me free to do a lot more work.  I am hoping to make a lot of progress during the upcoming cooler months.

The second investment I made was for a membership in the Antiquarian Horological Society.  This organization published a series of articles that I am using as my primary documentation.  Although the membership is rather steep (around $100 a year) it should be a good investment.  I have been thinking about it off and on for a few years but the final driving reason for it was the note at the end of the articles I have.

The articles were photocopied and sent to me by the British Museum.  Because they are photocopies, some of the pictures aren't real clear.  Well, at the end of one of the articles they stated that the articles that I am interested in are available to members on CD.  So, this morning I sent off my membership request with a request for the CD.  Hopefully I can still get the CD.

Feeling real now...

In the spring of 1996, I started working in London.  Shortly after I started working in London, I saw the clock at the British Museum that inspired my obsession.  Unfortunately at the time, I didn't know that much about making reproductions.  I say unfortunately because I lost a big opportunity in taking photos for my own use.  I made some sketches and took just a few photos.

When I returned to the states in late 1997, it took me nearly two years to learn enough about woodworking to make my first clock.  That was 1999.  I knew when I completed it that I was not overly satisfied with it.  It didn't work all that well but it was still a very cool project.



I did a few more woodworking projects and in early 2001 I made a second wooden clock.  I was much more satisfied with that one.  It worked and the wood working was much better.  I still have that clock in my house.  (The first clock was recycled for its wood.  Believe me, it was the right thing to do...)  I felt that I was ready to tackle a metal version of the clock.



At that time, I was going through changes in my life.  I pretty much put aside a lot of projects until things settled down.  In late 2002, I put together my first forge.  It was a brake drum from a truck and powered by a hair dryer for its air supply.  My first anvil was a 55 pounder from India.  That anvil dented under a stiff breeze.  It was a year after that in late October 2003 that I started this blog.

I completely underestimated how long it would take me to make the clock.  Maybe it was arrogance or maybe I was just comparing it too much to woodworking.  But I had a lot to learn.  The Mastermyr chest reproduction I did last year gave me the confidence that I would be able to make the clock.

Earlier this year when I was finally able to figure out how to make the finials on the clock.  That was a weight off my shoulders.  Once I figured that out, I knew I was on the right track.  Also, I started to make parts of the frame.  I had some success and some failures.

Just within the past month, I have been making a serious effort to make progress on the clock.  Other than the family vacation, I have been getting out at least every other day and have made very few (know on wood) mistakes.

I sat down after working tonight to relax.  When I sat down, I started thinking about it and I realize now that this clock will be made.  There are times that I have doubted myself over the years but that is in the past.  I know I still have a lot of challenges ahead.  The axles and gears I'm sure will be challenging.  However, I have no worries about them now.  Just another technique to learn.  It feels really good.

Tonight I worked on the cross bar again.  I started to punch and cut the shapes needed on the top cross bar.  This is what it looks like.  It was still wet from quenching when this photo was taken.



A little explanation.  This cross bar will be on top of the clock.  The two cutout shapes on the right side of the picture will hold vertical bars.  A small piece of metal will hold the bar in place.  The picture that follows helps to explain it.  The blue square is where the bar will go.  The yellow bar is where a shim of metal will be placed to keep the bar in place.  The hole out the to left is to hold another part.  That part will hold a part of the clock that is similar in function to a pendulum.

Steady progress...

A few more hours of work today and the other cross bar is cut to size.  If I can get just a few more hours of work in, I should be a be able to complete the frame this weekend!

Side by side comparison...

  A little bit more work on the forge today.  Finished cutting one of the crossbars.  Not too exciting but here is a side by side comparison picture.  The metal on the left is the 4" x 3/8" stock that I am cutting the crossbars from.  The bar in the middle is the cross bar I just completed.  The one on the right is a crossbar I made early this year.



  The bar is not yet completed.  There is some additional work necessary but the rest of the work won't be as monotonous as the cutting.  I just have to punch a few holes and make a few small cuts.

Cross Bars Part Deux

 A while back I started work on the cross bars.  The cross bars sit in the middle of the clock and are used to hold vertical supports for the axles.  When I made them, they have a bulge in the middle but the bulge really wasn't wide enough.  Here is a pic of the original cross bars.  This is an old pic of the frame from many months ago.  The cross bars are in the middle of the frame just resting on the frame to give an idea where they sit.



I started to make the replacements for these parts.  I am using a piece of 4" x 3/8" flat stock.  Here is a picture of the piece prior to any work.  You can see markings that am using to make the piece.  To make these pieces I am chiseling rather than drawing out (thinning) the thin part of the bars because it is easier.  Anyway, this is the pic.



There is a bulge in the middle with thinner arms to either side.  This is a picture after some of the chisel work.



Unfortunately, some storms were threatening and I needed to take care of some stuff for work so had to stop for the day.  Here are some other pictures.  This is the bending fork (or scroll fork) that I quickly made yesterday.



I also picked up some steel today to make a cutting saddle.  The cutting saddle is so that you can safely chisel through your metal.  If you did not have one of these and you accidentally cut all the way through the metal, then you would dull your chisel on the anvil face (or scar your anvil if its from India or China).  I made a saddle a while back but the metal was too thin and it distorted whenever it got hot.  The new one is much thicker.



After I formed the saddle, I made sure to make the saddle dead soft.  That means I heat it to a nice red head then cool it very slowly.  This makes the metal very soft and less likely to ruin any chisels.

Prep work for the gears

Got out to the forge for a few hours.  For tonight, it was tool making night.  First, I made another large chisel.  I then used that chisel to make a bending fork.  The bending fork I will be using to form the circular part of the gears.  To make the bending fork, I split a 1" bar stock for about 6".  This split was then bent and seperated to form a "T" shape.  After I rounded up the arms I bent them back into a "U" shape.  Overall, to make the chisel and fork was less than 2 hours of forge time.