Some basic supplies.

 Today, I picked up some new wire wheels to help on the polishing on the clock.  The bigger score today was the 50# of S7 alloy steel.  The stock is perfectly sized for making hammers and other tools.  Specifically, the S7 is for top swages that I will use to create the clocks arbors (axles).

I should read more often...

After my last post I started thinking a bit, which can be dangerous.  I went through all my blacksmithing books and I am going to try another finish.  I am doing this from memory so I think it goes something like this...

1)  Wire brush frame
2)  Follow with rub down with scotch-brite pads
3)  Next, a mixture of Linseed oil and thinner with a small amount of beeswax melted in.
4)  Wipe on metal while metal is warm (not hot)
5)  Repeat one or two times to ensure complete coverage.
6)  Follow up with a polishing wax.

Like I've said before, this would not be as big of an issue if I was using wrought iron.  However, I do want the clock to last for some time so I want to make sure I have a nice protective layer.  I may also pick up some heavy plastic that I can wrap the clock with.  This is because I frequently work on the clock at demos so I want someway to transport it in the back of my truck without it getting wet.

Frame closer to being done.

Spent some more time on the forge.  I started by finishing up the peen work.  I also went back and did cleanup on all of the peens from the other day.  I needed to do the cleanup because I had left a little "wiggle room" in case I needed to adjust the frame.  The frame is very securely together now.  I cannot get it to shift at all.

Next, I straightened out one of the end pins that had gotten a little bent during the closing up of the frame.  That looks pretty good now.

Finally, I did a test cleaning and finishing of one post.  I simply wire brushed it then treated it with beeswax.  I want to see how it comes out before I continue.  I might go for a mix of linseed and beeswax to ensure a more thorough protection coat.

Then, when I got inside, I had a surprise waiting for me.  The author of the articles that I have been using as my primary source of information had sent me an email.  I've mentioned him before but this email was very encouraging.  To his knowledge, no one has ever tried to reproduce this style of clock using period techniques.  He gave me some strong words of encouragement and offered to answer any technical questions that I might have.  :) 

It pays to send emails...

In my effort to make the clock as period as possible, I have been in contact with various museums in England.  Perhaps the best move I made was to contact the British Museum several years ago.  As a result of that contact, I received a photo copy of articles by Jeremy Evans of the British Museum.  These articles have been one of my primary sources of information.

I started emailing Mr. Evans about 2 years ago.  During conversations with him, I came to the realization that I needed to learn more smithing.  I fell out of contact with Mr. Evans and when I attempted to contact him earlier this year, I found out that he had retired.

Well, I decided to try and track Mr. Evans down as I thought he might be interested.  Once again I sent a note to the British Museum and I just got a reply back.  Mr. Evans is interested in conversing more with me.  He is probably the number one person to ask questions about this clock.  This comes at an opportune moment as I am kind of stuck in understanding a few small issues with the clock.  They include:

*  The arbor of the going train (timekeeping side of the clock).  It has several parts that slide on (main gear, a few washers and the winding drum) and I cannot figure out how all of these are properly fitted.

*  There is a tension spring on the count wheel (used to control striking of the bells) and I'm not sure I understand the purpose.  Could just be to make sure the wheel stays vertical.

*  There is a spring on the main arbor of the striking train (bell ringing side of the clock) that acts as a clutch during the winding process and I'm not quite sure of its construction.

Frame nearly complete

  Today, I was able to finish forming the bottom cross bar.  I also punched the holes in the bottom part of the frame to allow the cross bar to be placed.  Once I complete the cross bar, it was time to seal the frame up.  To do this, the end of long bars in the frame are heated then peened to form a head.  This is the same as hammering over a rivet to have it grip.  This picture shows the frame in the fire to heat up a corner to close it up.



Notice the at the top of the photo, the corners furthest from the camera have already been peened over while the closer ones are still untouched.  Also notice that the part of the frame closest to the camera is held to together by twisted rope.

This picture shows all but two corners peened over.  Unfortunately, I was getting tired and my blows were getting sloppy so I decided to stop rather than mess up the frame.  This is what the frame looks like at the moment.

 

So what's left for the frame?  I just need to peen over two more corners.  After that, its cleanup time.  I will wire brush the entire frame.  I will do this using a angle grinder with a wire wheel.  This is one of the few times I let myself use power tools.  Since I have to use mild steel instead of wrought iron, I have to worry a lot more about rusting.  I will clean the frame up then heat parts of the frame and treat it with beeswax to finish it.  Oh, by the way, the frame is almost perfectly square.  There is only one spot that it is out by the smallest amount.  It won't cause me a problem which is good because I can't figure out an easy way to fix it.

Maybe this weekend I can start making gears...

A good mistake...

  I demoed at an SCA event this weekend.  Because of meetings and other activities, I did not get as much forge time as I wanted but still managed to get a lot done.

  I worked on the crossbars on the frame.  I made a mistake in my math when deciding where to place the tenons.  When I first made the tenons, they didn't have that much of a shoulder.  I was a bit disappointed with the shoulders but when I compared them to the frame I realized that both tenons needed to be moved back half an inch.  Because of this, I was able to form a much better shoulder on the tenons.

  Once I was done with the top cross bar, I punched holes in the existing frame for the crossbar.  This picture shows the top cross bar in place.  The bottom cross bar is also in the picture but I ran out time when I was working on it.  I only need another few hours to finish it.  Within the next few days, I will be permanently attaching the frame together.



This picture is a close up of the cross bar tenon.  It shows a slot that will allow another piece to be wedge into position.  Also, notice the rust on the lower cross bar.  I left it in the slack tub overnight and you can tell what was under water and what wasn't.

Two good investments

Florida presents different problems for the different seasons.  I am working out of my garage.  More specifically, when I forge, I pull the forge out into the driveway.  I work by daylight.  During the summer, I have plenty of light but also plenty of heat.  It is usually so hot that I can only work for a few hours.  Bummer...  Anytime other than summer, its cool enough but the sun sets very early.  So I end up not having a lot of time to forge after I get home from work.

Two weeks ago I purchased a large set of halogen lights on a tripod.  These things pump out quite a bit of light.  I am now able to work up until 8:30.  I never work past 8:30 to avoid problems with the neighbors.  It has really set me free to do a lot more work.  I am hoping to make a lot of progress during the upcoming cooler months.

The second investment I made was for a membership in the Antiquarian Horological Society.  This organization published a series of articles that I am using as my primary documentation.  Although the membership is rather steep (around $100 a year) it should be a good investment.  I have been thinking about it off and on for a few years but the final driving reason for it was the note at the end of the articles I have.

The articles were photocopied and sent to me by the British Museum.  Because they are photocopies, some of the pictures aren't real clear.  Well, at the end of one of the articles they stated that the articles that I am interested in are available to members on CD.  So, this morning I sent off my membership request with a request for the CD.  Hopefully I can still get the CD.